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Surfing...


Kawika

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I learned how to surf in Hawaii if you want to try it...Here are few things you ought to know...

closeout – a wave or a large section of a wave that breaks at the same time, making it impossible to continue surfing the open face of the wave down the line – along the face of the wave duck dive – a technique used to paddle out past a breaking wave.  Arms push the nose of the surfboard down while the knee or foot pushes down on the tail as the surfer dips below the passing wave. face – the open, unbroken part of a wave green wave – an open wave allowing the surfer to surf along the face of the wave, going either left or right parallel with the beach instead of straight towards the beach inside – when paddling for a wave, “inside” refers to the person closest to the peak of the wave.  “Inside” also refers to the shallower part of the water closest to shore. kick out – to surf out of the wave, ending your ride (also called flicking out) deep – the steepest part of the shoulder closest to the peak of the wave is considered the deepest part of the wave.  Often when a surfer is “too deep” they are unable to drop in to a wave without falling off of their board lineup – the area where the waves normally begin breaking.  Surfers sit on their boards in the lineup and wait for waves to break. longboard – a longer, wider, thicker surfboard.  Longboards catch waves much easier than shortboards but are much harder to control and turn. outside – when paddling for a wave, “outside” refers to the person further away from the peak of the wave.  “Outside” also refers to the deeper part of the water, where the biggest waves break, further from shore. left – a left is a wave that is breaking to the left.  The direction “Left” is used by the surfer when describing the direction of the wave while facing shore.  Therefore, from the beach, a “left” is described as a wave that breaks from left to right. peak – the immediately breaking part of the wave. right – a right is a wave that is breaking to the right.  The direction “right” is used by the surfer when describing the direction of the wave while facing shore.  Therefore, from the beach, a “right” is described as a wave that breaks from right to left. section – a part of a wave.  When a surfer “makes a section” a surfer is staying in front of a breaking section of the wave. set wave – a larger wave (the largest waves usually break in sets of 2,3, or 4) shortboard – a shorter, narrower, thinner surfboard.  It is more difficult to catch a wave on a shortboard than it is on a longboard, but a shortboard can be controlled/turned much easier. shoulder – the unbroken section of the wave directly next to the peak turtle roll – a technique used to paddle a longboard out past a breaking wave.  Longboards are generally too big to duck dive.  With the turtle roll technique the surfer turns upside-down and propels the surfboard (also upside down) through the breaking wave. whitewash – the broken white water of a wave moving straight towards shore... and wipeout- I'm sure you don't need an explanation!

Surfing can be dangerous so it's important to know the terrain under the water you are surfing on and what is at the shoreline (rocks)... the most important advice I can give anyone starring out is to take lessons and then take some more lessons. Whenever I surf  someplace new I hire an instructor for an hour or so to show me the ropes of the beach.

 

 

Oh... and about naked surfing ... you need to go to a sanctioned nude beach and if the water is fit for surfing there is usually and invitational event but just remember to be extra careful... and have fun!

Your ultimate goal is to get a clean ride on the shoulder of the wave--- to do this you have to steer the board by standing up and using your feet to turn the board away from the break and ride the wave at an angle... Does this sound like Greek to you? Then you need to go to surfing school--- almost every hotel and surf shop on Oahu has someone they can recommend to you... The Banzai Pipeline, Sunset Beach and Waimea are the magic names to the brotherhood of Oahu surfers... but I recommend trying the gentler sets of waves in Waikiki if you are a beginner. Always pick the best surfing spots for your ability. For the most up to the minute weather and surf reports on Oahu call 808 973-4380.


Oh... and last but certainly not least---

 

First surfer up closest to the curl has the right of way.

Paddle around the break to get out.

Hang on to your board and look out for other surfers.

Help other surfers in trouble.

Respect the beach and the ocean.

 

 

 

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